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The intended result...

I guess I should have done this before: post pictures of what the intended result with the pattern I'm adapting looks like.

In the schematic it's this. You see that there are a number of deviations from the Milford look I'm aiming for, that I've taken care of through changes as recorded in my posts of pattern construction, so far. Most notably the wider cut of the lapel, the lack of pleats or arrows in the back, and the pockets.

And here's a little (like, tiny) drawing that, I think, shows the belt-less version, rather.


Mar. 15th, 2013 08:42 pm (UTC)
Hi. Thanks for posting all this!

I just wanted to ask for a few clarifications with regards to the initial measurements.

For the following values, fixed distances were added:
Rh +1.5cm At
1/5 OW +1cm Rb
1/8 OW +3cm A'd
1/20 OW +3cm Hs
1/4 OW +1cm B
1/4UW +1.5 cm Bau

Are these values static, or do they change in proportion to the height of the coat – for example, I’m 192cm tall, and you are 180cms – Do I add the same as you do?

Also, you mentioned that you’d post how to measure the secondary values, to check the calculations. I’m particularly interested in the Bau measurement – whilst I’m not particularly fat, like most men I do stick out more in the belly than the back. Is the 1.5cm enough to allow for this? (In the linked diagram, I’m the fellow on the right’s taller (and a bit slimmer!) brother :) http://www.muscleandstrength.com/articles/body-types-ectomorph-mesomorph-endomorph.html)

I’ve managed to track down some cheap fabric – navy wool/polyester for ) £0.99 per metre, so I’m going to order around 10m to give me scope for messing things up the first couple of times.

Current to do list:
1) draw out the pattern
2) re-draw pattern
3) …n keep on trying to get the pattern sorted!
4) order fabric
5) make custom tailor’s dummy (I have v wide shoulders) using the wetted paper tape over bin bag on torso technique – I suspect that the photos of this will be a real pull factor when I start to blog :)

Thanks again for posting all this!

Mar. 16th, 2013 12:52 pm (UTC)
Yes, those values are static. There's not mention of changing these. I HAVE, however, added some specifications for calculating the B-value for bigger OW-values, which MIGHT be of interest to you, seeing how you're male and taller than even me ;) (http://ihyestil.livejournal.com/2338.html)

Please note we add those 1,5cm to every QUARTER of the Bau-value, which means, of course, that it's 6 cm for the total circumference... Also: we add a few more centimetres for an Ulster coat, to make sure it's "roomy" enough ;)
But: There actually ARE two more versions of constructing an Ulster called, evocatively, "Ulster für die mäßige Korpulenz" (Ulster for the moderately corpulent) and "Dickbauch-Ulster" (Big belly Ulster). I could put up the corresponding pages, if you're interested.

Well, with regard to body height... I'm curious myself how that is going to work out, but since you draw the pattern according to and factoring in your body's measurements, I am quite confident this should work out nicely.

That's a good price for fabric for the trial coat!!

I'm looking forward to that dummy, and your blog in general :)