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New love!

Got an excellent book for my birthday, that'll help me a lot with the COAT (I hope).

Atelier Fachwissen

The title is "Atelier Fachwissen" ("Studio Know-How" ;)) and it's one of the books edited by the "Rundschau Verlag", which also publishes one of the few remaining professional tailors' magazines, "Rundschau für internationale Damen-/Herrenmode...". This book has it ALL! The pictures are in b/w, but pretty clear, and it covers almost all the points I need. For some reason, there's no explicit instructions concerning double-breasted coats/jackets anywhere, which I do find a bit strange. It's not that unusual to have a double-breasted coat, surely...

But otherwise, the instructions are all there, and I'll surely refer back to this one quite a bit in future, once I've actually cut the fabric and started putting the (trial) coat together. More pictures will probably follow, as well...

Comments

( 4 comments — Leave a comment )
j_d_p
Mar. 8th, 2013 11:56 pm (UTC)
Do you have a picture of what the coat should look like?
Hi,
I came across your site whilst researching what was needed to reproduce my Grandfather's 1938 overcoat. He had it made out of Crombie tweed, and it lasted well into the 1980s!

I've seen the various patterns at cutterandtailor.com, but your pictorial guide to how to draw out a pattern is very easy to follow, so I was wondering whether you might have a picture, from the book, of what the finished coat would look like if you simply followed the plan to the letter.

Nowhere however have I managed to find plans for an Ulster style coat apart from the military greatcoats from the 1940s, so whilst I *think* I could modify them, if your planned coat is similar to my Grandfather's I might just try to follow in your footsteps instead!

thanks in advance


ihyestil
Mar. 9th, 2013 06:34 pm (UTC)
Re: Do you have a picture of what the coat should look like?
I will post the pictures as soon as possible, most likely tomorrow. There is not really a photograph, but a schematic drawing, and a sketch of a gentleman wearing the Ulster, though one without belt, if I remember correctly...

I am very happy to hear that you find this easy to follow :) I'll still be glad to clear up things if you get stuck anywhere, as I guess my descriptions aren't always crystal clear. Writing "technically" like this proved rather difficult.

You ARE looking for an Ulster WITH a belt, right? Because there's another one for a plain Ulster, as well.

I'd love hearing from you again!
- ihyestil
j_d_p
Mar. 10th, 2013 08:53 am (UTC)
Thanks for the reply!

Actually, I was assuming that you were making a coat with a half belt only - which is what my Grandfather had as well. Unfortunately he was shorter than me, so whilst I wore it through college, it isn't really big enough for me :)

I found this thread

(http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=652&st=0&p=20276&hl=overcoat&fromsearch=1&#entry20276)

on the cutterandtailor forum to be useful. The airforce greatcoat looks most like the Sherlock coat from the back, although the pleat pattern for the Naval Bridgecoat looks like it's easier to manage! I like the way the 1960's Rundschau pattern is drawn to mean that you can cut the back as a single piece - that should save a little work!

Once I get everything sorted I'll start blogging about it. Thought I'd finish with a link to the fabric I've found:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/molloyandsons/6791771269/in/photostream/

I like pattern number #0702 161 as it'd go with the most colours of clothing, although like JessAmy, I'm going to do a trial run in cheap fabric first - my experience of coat making is currently limited to working with goretex.

ihyestil
Mar. 10th, 2013 05:33 pm (UTC)
You got that right, I AM going to make one with a half-belt!
That's a great thread on cutterandtailor, thanks for that one. Well, yes. The R.A.F. coat looks similar, apart from that curve to the lapel. As to the pleat in the back... I for my part am glad that the Milford's back is horizontally divided behind that belt, so I can work on the upper and lower part separately ;)
Anyway, I'm posting the schematic for the half-belt Ulster from my book (which is from the Rundschau publishers, too) and a small drawing showing the result as worn by a gentleman from the 50ies... Although I suspect that it's the belt-less version.
That fabric looks beautiful! It would be awesome if you let me know once you start blogging, I'm sure to follow!
Besides, I'm going to do a mock-up, as well. In that charming green wool you can find some posts back... My experience in coat-making is practically non-existent :)
( 4 comments — Leave a comment )